Hamburg-Germany 13,

July 19, 2023,

Hi Everyone,

I left Wilhelmshaven under sunny skies and it remained that way for the whole day. Yesterday, I had planned to change my GPS to secondary roads instead of tertiary roads, but in the end I decided to stay with the original plan at least in the beginning of my days journey. The German countryside, at least in the area that I am visiting, resembles the countryside that I am used to riding in, in Southern Quebec across from the Mercier Bridge. However, these are German roads and although narrow, there are no pot holes.

All of the countryside consists of endless farm land. There are no forests to speak of. All of the land is exploited one way or another. The country gives one the definite impression of being wealthy. The farm houses resemble one another to some extent while at the same time, each one is different. Most of the houses are 2 story structures, made of brick and having peaked roofs. Nothing is run down like you see in upper New York State or Vermont. Everything is spotlessly clean. Even the farm houses have nice gardens. There are some huge estates with beautiful large houses.

The villages however, resemble an endless suburb. There is nothing historical to speak of. Was Germany a poor country before the war and were all the houses knocked down to build newer structures? I came across no castles and only the occasional newish church that did not merit a visit. The towns are few and far between. I don’t know where people do their shopping for food or dry goods. Do they all go to a big city once a week?

I rode for 3.5 hours before finally finding a cafe-bakery where I could get a cappuccino and a croissant. This certainly is not like France where there is a village every 10k with a cafe, a bistro, a 500 year old church, a castle, a cross in the middle of town and a monument to the fallen soldiers of WW1. The drivers are extremely polite, especially to me. Maybe my white hair sticks out of the back of my helmet.

I still had 2 more hours to ride to get to Munster. The whole trip was 225k and was scheduled to take 5 hours. At this point I had had enough of cows. I changed plans and took to the secondary roads. The final part of the ride took 30 minutes as I could ride at 100k/hr. My GPS lady was disappointed and kept giving me directions to turn left or right to get me back on the side roads. I just kept on following the major over head signs until I got to Munster. Then I followed her directions. I will apologize to her tomorrow.

I am staying at place called Factory Hotel. It is a 4* hotel with 2 restaurants and a bistro. The outside resemble an old factory. The inside of course has been completely redone to resemble a hotel. I even have in door parking for my bike. I was really sweaty when I arrived, resembling a motorcycle bum. I am wearing my black ski jacket with grey pants which more or less resembles a motorcycle outfit. Anyway, it keeps me warm and dry.

Love, Brian

I am feeling very wordy this evening. Wine…. Salad for supper after my Sunday at noon.

Wilhelmshaven has a fantastic naval museum. It traces the history of the German Navy from its beginnings. They really specialized in u-boats (submarines) in both WW1 and WW2.

They had several ships, all of which you could go on board both in the water and on land. I visited a destroyer, a mine sweeper, a u-boat and a PT boat. If I had ever had to have been in the navy, and if I had had a choice, I would have chosen a destroyer. There is no way I would ever like to have been a sailor in a u-boat. After 50 years, you could still smell the diesel odours. Add to that the smell of sweat and poorly cooked food and you can imagine the conditions. Everything is tight, tight, tight, with poor or no ventilation. It was kind of strange being on an ‘enemy ship’ but I still felt sorry for the lads that had to endure these conditions. I must watch Das Boat when I return to Montreal.

Love, Brian

Hamburg-Germany 11,

July 18, 2023,

Hi Everyone,

I wanted to visit Wilhelmshaven for family reasons. My father spent 6 years of his life in the army beginning at age 20. He was a D-Day vet landing at 8:30 in the morning with the Canadian Army at Juno Beach with the Regiment de la Chaudiere. He later was with the Signal Corps attached to the Royal Canadian Engineers. He was a radio man, a corporal, and had a truck resembling a Jeep Cherokee with a canvas roof, run flat tires and armoured. He had 2 drivers with him. He lost 4 during the next 11 months. He was stationed just outside of Wilhelmshaven on May 6, 1945 and they were supposed to attack the town when the war ended. They knew that the war was about to end but you still had to be careful as there were still snipers and not everyone knew about the imminent surrender. On May 7th he was allowed to celebrate with alcohol but on May 8th he had to remain sober, driving around to pick up the boys who couldn’t make it on their own back to camp.

Wilhelmshaven is a deep water port that was largely destroyed by bombing during the war. The town has been rebuilt but the architecture is not really significant. There is a beautiful beach promenade that stretches for several km. They advertise a non sandy beach which consists of grass, leading to a stoney beach and stairs to get into the water. The water was cool but ok for swimming although there were few takers even though it was 25C. I had a sundae and a cappuccino for lunch, the Sunday had enough calories for my next 3 meals. The tourists were all German out for a weekend. I can understand why the Germans prefer to holiday in France, Italy or Greece. There is no comparison with the atmosphere and architecture of the Normandy, Britany or Mediterranean sea ports.

My bike is great on the highway but a little heavy for maneuvering in the city. My Triumph vibrates much more at highway speeds but is much more nimble in city traffic. I got off the bike to park it which I can easily manage without putting down the side stand which I can easily do on my Triumph. You must put down the side stand before dismounting the BMW. The balance is different. Well, I dropped the bike. No damage done to the bike, only too my pride. I couldn’t lift the bike by myself. A truck stopped right away and the 2 guys smiled and righted my bike. Lot’s of dunkes.

I walked around the town and crossed the Kaiser Wilhelm Bridge which is the biggest ‘swing’ bridge in Europe. If you have nothing to do in a European city, you can always visit a church. The atmosphere inside is always very calming although I am 100% against the philosophy.

I managed to lose a saddle. How? I don’t know. Maybe an excuse to buy a Birkenstalk tomorrow in Munster.

Love, Brian

Hamburg-Germany 10,

July 18, 2023,

Hi Everyone,

I am staying at the Nordsee Hotel on the beach just outside of Wilhelmshaven. It is a nice enough 2-3*, very clean like everything in Germany but without too much character. I wasn’t looking for character; I was more interested in price and convenience when I chose it. I have a beautiful view of the beach and the gardens and I can get to ‘downtown’ easily in 5 minutes on my motor bike.

There are no children or families staying here. Mostly the hotel caters to 50-60 year old couples out for a few days holiday. The guests appear to be mostly working class or lower middle class, My bike is worth more than any car in the parking lot. (No Mercedes, Audis or Beemers except mine). In Hamburg everyone spoke English. You didn’t have to ask anyone “do you speak English?”. English, the Roman language of the 21st century has not reached here yet. Everyone is very polite and can speak a smattering of the international language. Once again sign language comes in handy.

Everyone smokes here, in the restaurant and on the terrace. The men all have bellies and the women are rather pudgy. People drink beer and only sip wine as an apero. I am used to saying Bonjour or Monsieur-Dame as in France when you enter a room or pass someone while walking. This is out of question here. I did this in the dining room yesterday and the men just stared at me. The women smiled however ( maybe they find me good looking ). My tattoos from the triathlon don’t wash off and I don’t feel like buying acetone to remove them. I look quite athletic.

I loaded up my bike with the necessities and headed into town to explore my surroundings. Rule 1, when you travel, always carry an umbrella. If you don’t, it will rain. It did, not hard but just enough to get me wet. I am wearing my North Face, gortex jacket for riding. It’s amazing. Yesterday, it was soaking we on the outside but I was dry as can be on the inside. It dried out in 8 hours hanging in my room. My leather gloves however are still wet. Unfortunately, the jacket has a hood that I didn’t bring with me. Rule 2, keep walking in between the raindrops. The rain will eventually stop and you will dry off.

Love, Brian

Hamburg-Germany 9,

July 17, 2023,

Hi Everyone,

I got off to a slow start this morning. I had breakfast at my usual bakery. I packed and repacked my stuff several times as I only have a small luggage box that comes with the bike. I took a taxi to BMW on the outskirts of town. This allowed me to see other parts of Hamburg outside of the down town area. Most of the apartments that I saw were nice enough, built in the sixties and rather non descript. I also went through some of the wealthier suburbs and of course the houses were beautiful.

I arrived at BMW and my bike was waiting for me. The salesman spent some time with me explaining the bike to me and connecting up my GPS. I left my luggage there. I headed off towards Wilhelmshaven as planned. I mapped out my whole route in Montreal including the hotels that I had chosen to stay in. I have a Tom-Tom Rider especially designed for motor bike touring. I set the GPS to go on tertiary roads, avoiding major highways and the Autobahn. Perhaps the roads that I had chosen were a little too tertiary. I saw very few cars but sometimes I was on a semi paved road that was little more than a cow path. For the next part of the journey, I will reset the GPS for secondary roads. 225 km took me 5 hours.

The roads that I were on lead me through the German countryside. The villages were very small and far between with few places to stop and have a coffee. The land was quite flat and there were farms everywhere. The roads are well maintained (except for the cow paths that had grass growing in the middle). The European signage is excellent.

I rented a BMW 700 GS which is a modern 21st century bike, a far cry from my 50 year old Triumph. The gears shift flawlessly. The bike is very stable even in the rain as there is a special rain gear. The acceleration is incredible although I never went over 80k due to the roads that I was on.

I arrived at the hotel somewhat damp and took a well deserved hot shower. The hotel is situated directly on the beach, a few km from the downtown section. Wilhelmshaven is a small town with an important deep water harbour. I will explore that part of town tomorrow. I am rather lucky as the hotel has its own restaurant; I really didn’t feel like riding anymore today.

Love, Brian

Hamburg-Germany 8,

July 17, 2023,

Hi Everyone,

2 nights ago I went to bed with a sore throat, runny nose, cough, wheezing, stomach and colon problems. I must have caught a bug. I woke up yesterday morning refreshed and ready for a new day. Instead of purchasing the touristy Hop on Hop off for 30 euros, I found a similar deal that the locals use. For 6.9 Euros I could take any train, bus,subway and ferry boat in Hamburg for 24 hours. I started the morning with a ferry boat trip for 2 hours up the river, stopping along various quays to pick up and drop off passengers. The boat was filled with Hamburg people out for a Sunday ride. I was the only tourist. We passed by the industrial port area as well as an apartment project built on the water.

Afterwards, I used the subway to visit various areas of the city. I watched the finals of the elite triathletes and the relay race. Although Canada did not win very many medals, the participation was great. I ate supper with Rick and we exchanged life stories, you know, when guys get together over a beer.

‘Get your motor running, head out on the highway, looking for adventure, whatever we may find, born to be wild’ (Steppenwolf, Easy Rider). Today, I pick up my BWW 700 GS and head out towards Wilhelmshaven.

Love, Brian

Hamburg-Germany 7’

July 16, 2023,

Hi Everyone,

Last evening after eating a meal which was too filling, I followed the advice of 2 of my ‘followers’ and took the subway to Reeperbahn. This is a street, several blocks long in the St. Pauli area. I have been blown away by the incredible good things that Hamburg has to offer. Well, the opposite is with what I observed in Reeperbahn. This area is absolutely the worst that Hamburg and probably the rest of Germany has to offer. I was easily the oldest, smallest, white haired person on the street. This is the famous Red Light District of Hamburg. The street itself and the off streets offer the most seedy aspect in Hamburg. It was not at all dangerous to walk there alone, as there were tons of people around. There was a small police presence but I don’t doubt that there were cameras and plain clothes men around so as to protect against disturbances.

The street mostly consists of sex shops selling all sorts of ‘toys’ and clothing. You can buy any time of ‘organ’ that you need. Restaurants were mostly fast food joints, very poor quality. There was bar, after bar, after bar offering cheap drinks and of course dancing girls. The music was loud and a lot of people were dancing and having a good time. There were prostitutes everywhere. There was even a 1 block street called Herbertstrasse where men only are allowed to go. Women, all made up with make-up, in skimpy dresses, sitting on chairs in window fronts, offered themselves up for sex. The crowd on the street was mostly pretty low class. There were street ‘odours’ everywhere, some of which I recognized, some of which I did not. I did not hear or see any tourists. The tourist books advise that you visit the area with a guide although nobody seems to bother anyone if you are not interested in what is for sale. There were ATM machines on every corner; I guess that most people pay cash for what they purchase.

I didn’t sit down for a drink. A also would have been afraid to enter a club as I had a bag with me and was afraid to be pick pocketed. The people walking around were mostly young to middle age, a very rough, tough looking crowd, although I did not see any fights and only heard a police siren once. The area resembled a poorer ‘Old Los Vagas’ area. It had much less class from what I remember of the Red Light District in Amsterdam, however that was 50 years ago and things might have changed.

After 1 hour of strolling around, I had had enough. So I took the subway back to my area, downtown. What a difference!

Love, Brian

Hamburg-Germany 6,

July 15, 2023,

Hi Everyone,

I must have been exhausted yesterday as I slept for 9 hours, waking up rather refreshed after my race yesterday. As a senior citizen I might even start getting used to sleeping for more that 8 hours, after 50 years of sleep deprivation of 6.5 hours of sleep per night. I wrote my blog this morning for 1 hour and set out to explore Hamburg on foot. I walked from 11:00 to 6:00 only stopping for a brief sandwich for lunch.

It was sunny, 28C, a beautiful day with a small sprinkle of a shower that did not require an umbrella. I used Siri and Apple Maps to get around. It is nice having someone to talk to. She doesn’t even get annoyed with me if I take a wrong turn.

Hamburg is a city, rebuilt with 19th century architecture. The buildings are not uniform like in Paris but somehow the buildings seem to go well together. The city is built on a series of canals. My first stop was the Maritime Museum. I spent 2 hours there but could easily have spent the whole day. The museum traces naval history from the first ships in the Middle Ages to the present time. They explain the European conquests of the New World and the East. A pope at the time divided the world among the Catholic powers so as ‘not to cause conflict’. Spain was ‘given’ the Americas and Portugal was ‘given’ India and the East. Britain and France were not consulted and obviously did not agree with the ‘unfair’ devision setting the stage for 400 years of colonial warfare terminating with WW2 and beyond. The slave trade was atrocious.

I then made my way to the new and modern symphony and opera house, the Elbphilharmonie. It is an incredible building, ultra modern, married well with its surroundings. I could not visit the symphony hall itself as it was closed to the public. However, I was able to go up to the terrace which gives a beautiful view of the harbour. It costs 2 Euros to visit but when I got to the entrance, the nice lady told me in English, without me having to ask the price of a ticket, that it was free for me. I guess with my white hair I resemble a senior American tourist. I took the Metro back to my hotel, cheap, clean and not at all crowded even at rush hour

I ate dinner outside at a German restaurant. The portions are huge.

Love, Brian

Hamburg-Germany 5

July 15, 2023,

Hi Everyone,

Today is Saturday, beautiful, sunny 25C. The perfect day to walk around and see Hamburg. I didn’t write yesterday, except for a few emails to exclaim that I was still alive. I was seriously exhausted after the triathlon and needed a brake in the action. The atmosphere is electric here. I never saw such a collection of tall, long legged, hard, muscular bodies in one place. The men as well as the women. There are 4000-5000 athletes here from 36 different countries participating in a dozen different events. The Canadian delegation is one of the biggest and very popular if one considers the cheering that we got in the parade and among the enthusiastic fans that lined the race course. On the other hand, triathletes don’t know how to party like sailors at major regattas such as the North Americans, the Canadians and the World J24 Championships. They are too keen to stay in shape. They come to win, not to play, especially the Brits, the Americans, the Germans and the Aussies.

We started the day by meeting outside of the hotel and walking to the area marked off for the race at the port. There was a check in for the bikes and serious security as they obviously did not want to have an incident. I parked my bike in the designated area for my number 1565 and my running shoes in a separate area assigned to me. I took my wet suit with me as we were allowed to wear it for the swim given the water temperature of 21.9C. 22C was the cut off for allowing wetsuits except for the ‘seniors’ who need them to keep afloat. I then walked around the exhibits and had a light breakfast.

My group of men 70 to 89 years of age met at the waterfront half hour before the swim. We were in the water 5 minutes before the horn blew with super enthusiasm from the athletes yelling and cheering themselves on before the start. Usually I hang back and allow the faster swimmers to go ahead so as not to get kicked in the face. I made a mistake and started in the first row, going all out for the first 100m. I was a little short of breath and did a few breast strokes to relax and find my rhythm. After that it was ok.

We ran out of the water and there were some young officials there to encourage us and help us onto the stairs. I then ran over to my bike, took off my wet suit (I am rather slow at that; I should practiced it at home in the garden.) My transition time was 8 min, the faster athletes do it in 4. However, I relish the brake to get my energy back. My bike part was ok, but I was still on the first lap and the leaders were passing me on their 2nd lap. My run was ok although I was tired at the end. The major advantage in being one of the last in my age group is that I get to run with the 20-30 year old girls (women) which is great to watch. There is no way that I could keep up with them. The difference with a race here as opposed to a race in Quebec, is that in Quebec the girls all shout out encouragement to me saying ‘allez, lache pas’ as they pass me. Here non of the girls talk. They are too interested in winning.

I arrived at the finish line and one of the officials congratulated me and put a beautiful finishing medal around my neck. I wore it all day and only took it off when I went to bed. I relaxed for the rest of the day and visited the booths. After all, my goal was to play, not to win, and of course to finish the race. I visited the Garmin booth to look over the watches. I bought my watch 10 years ago and have never really learned how to set it up to do a multi sport triathlon. The advisor at the booth, Veronica, looked at my watch as if it were a historical entity. She was really nice and spent 1 hour setting it up for me, incredibly patient with a senior citizen who is a techno-peasant.

My results were a PB (personal best) at 1:56. The word must have gotten around that there was a Canadian to beat as he wins all the golds, silvers and bronzes in his age group in Canada. And beat me they did. The mean in my group was 1:30. I can’t even dream of doing that. I came 43rd out of 44 with 1 athlete dropping out of the race. If I compare my time with the 75 to 79 group, I do a little better and improve in the 80 to 84 group. There is even an 85-89 age group. An 80 year old blew by me in the last 500m as if I were standing still. I really don’t care about the results, I was here to have a good time. The athletes here in all age groups are really serious about their sport. They identify themselves as triathletes. This is their sport and this is what they do. As for me, triathlon is 1 of several sports that I participate in, and not necessarily the best one. Canada, although one of the biggest teams, managed only I silver medal in the men’s 80-85 division. I don’t know how we did in the other races. Today I will try to get my medal engraved with my name on it.

Last evening I had dinner with a Canadian, Rick, from Edmonton. We exchanged athletic stories although I am sure that I did most of the talking as usual. I spoke to 1 Canadian who has done 60 world championships in various divisions over the last 30 years. I will have to live to 130 to accomplish that. Today I will walk around and explore Hamburg, what a wonderful city.

Love, Brian

Hamburg-Germany 4,

July 13, 2023,

Hi Everyone,

Here is a good rule of thumb for finding restaurants in a foreign country. No matter where you are in the world, look for an Italian restaurant. You can’t possibly go wrong. Italian restaurants always know how to prepare a good spaghetti, cannelloni or rigatoni. I found an Italian restaurant and I was right. I had a rigatoni prepared ‘just the way mama makes it in the old country’.

Over the last 3 months I have been training like a fiend. I played hockey twice a week or once a week and raced my sailboat on the make up day. 3 days a week I would do 2 or 3 parts of the triathlon. For example, I would run 5k in the morning, swim 30 laps (750m) in the afternoon and ride my bike on the bike path for 50 minutes (20k) in the evening. I put it all together last week in the Gatineau Triathlon where I won a silver. This should be good enough to be invited to the World Championships in Malaga next year. I will skip into the 75-79 age group.

I also modified my diet. Breakfast: 1.5 cappuccinos with a bagel, butter, no jam. Lunch: small salad, fruit and a cappuccino. I snacked minimally between meals: Supper: a good meal but no seconds. No scotch on Friday night. I also decreased my wine intake from half a bottle to 2 glasses. Last night I drank my usual 2 glasses and surprise, surprise, I was flying. Were the Italian glasses bigger than my usual or I am I no longer able to consume 2 glasses of wine with a meal and remain sober? What will happen to me when I return home and go back to my usual habit? The former is a disaster and the later even worse!

Today I woke up early and went to the bike shop to pick up the bike that I had rented. Some athletes brought their own bikes and unfortunately some of the bikes have not arrived yet. At noon, Team Canada met up at a Bavarian restaurant so our team leader could give us instructions. We are about 150 Canadians, one of the biggest teams. There are about 4000 athletes from 36 countries competing in 10 different races. We all then walked 1k to the main area for the ‘gathering of nations’. It started pouring and everyone took shelter under the tents. Finally we were able to unite for a photo shoot and the parade.

The parade was really exciting. The athletes lined up with their respective teams in alphabetical order. Pictures and movies were taken. Then a band started playing and we marched through the streets of Hamburg for half an hour. There were thousands of people lining the streets cheering us on “Ca-na-da, Ca-na-da”. It was very stirring and I was very proud. I didn’t know that so many people liked us. Then there were some speeches by the international triathlon president and the mayor or Hamburg. I listened to the oom-papa music by a German band for a while and then met up with the French Team. I introduced myself as a Francais-Anglophone from Quebec-Canada. That required a certain explanation. The French team is very small and they asked me why I don’t compete for France next year. Obviously they have never seen me run.